05.23.06

A foreigner in Pune - I

Posted in Travel at 7:46 am by The Editor

Arrived in Mumbai

I started my journey in Toronto’s Pearson Airport terminal 3 yesterday. As prescripted by the doctor, I had a light meal of milk and Dijon chicken sandwich at Brioche Dorée to go with my Malarone before my flight. Brioche Dorée is a popular franchise in France but I didn’t know that we have one in Toronto. The Malarone is STRONG! I was quickly put into a delicious stupor that kept me asleep for the duration of most of the flight.

After an uneventful 16 hours, I finally arrived in Mumbai. Boy, am I glad that the flight was split into two 8 hours portions with transit in Paris. Although I’m used to direct flight between Chicago and Hong Kong (14 to 16 hours), having a two-hour break in between makes a huge difference. I’m familiar with the Charles De Gaulle airport so it was very easy to hop from one end of the terminal to another. I even had time to purchase a phone card which will come in handy when I go back to Paris after my visit in India because I will need to get in contact with the apartment manager to arrange for check in immediately after I arrive.

Before I left, everyone was telling me that the meals at Air France is good. Well, they certainly were one of the better ones I had in economy class. For one thing, the food actually tasted like real food as oppose to a generic glob that they label with fancy names. We were served four meals in total. I had chicken in tarragon sauce with carrot puree (this actually tasted good), cheese tortellini (not too bad), couscous salad, and something else that I don’t remember. What I like most thought was that they include a wedge of President’s Camembert in all their meals! I love Camembert.

After I arrived in Mumbai airport, it was a breeze to go through immigration and customs. As soon as I walked out of the exit, the chauffeur from the hotel spotted me immediately and it was a short drive before I arrived at the hotel. This hotel is very nice indeed.Check out the lovely glass sink! It’s a popular design fixture recently. Although I’ve seen this elsewhere a number of times, it’s always a joy to have something pretty to look at. I am now comfortably wrapped in a fluffy bathrobe as I write. Gosh, I wonder how long it will take before I can get this nasty jetlag over with?

Trying Hard To Adjust

Today started off on an absolutely wrong note. I hate to sound like a whiny brat but I’m having a little difficulty adjusting to my current living quarter. I made up a shopping list of comfort items last night to make my stay easier and it includes toilet paper, Kleenx, hand-washing liquid soap, clothes hangers that don’t have suspicious black specks, and additional garbage bins. Now that I re-read my list, I have a strange vision of orange jumpsuit. Hmmm, I really don’t mean to come across in such a negative way.

I woke up this morning and was going to shower before heading off to work. It took a while before the water coming out from the tap was warm. Just when it was acceptable, slowly but surely, the trickle ran dry. That’s right, the place ran out of hot water though they claim otherwise. Reluctantly, I wet my hair with a few splashes of cold water and washed my face. This was not a good sign…

LM warned me yesterday that we have scheduled blackouts. Sure enough, at eight o’clock, the hum of the fan stopped. Wow, my first blackout. It wasn’t so bad because it was bright and early in the morning. Back-up power generator is the norm here in Pune. Even during the day at the office, we experienced power failure a few times. All the lights dimmed and a few seconds later, the power generator kicked in and we were back in business. Funny how so many things that I take for granted at home can no longer be expected.

Ordering breakfast was rather amusing. Each room has a takeout menu from one of the nearby restaurant. I called the front desk with my orders and he would in turn place the takeout order for me. Out of all the Punjabi menu items, I managed to put together a breakfast that actually was quite similar to my usual fare–sweet lassi (dairy), boiled eggs (protein), and plain paratha (carbs). The breakfast is the most important meal of my day and my mood was lifted somewhat by the food.

SS and LM were so wonderful to me. Knowing that I would have trouble finding my way around, they came to meet me at the hotel in the morning and we walked to work together. They showed me all the good restaurants, shops, and dry cleaners along the way. I’m really looking forward to trying some of these places! What’s even more wonderful was that they invited me to dinner at their home after work. I really appreciate their hospitality.

I like our office in Pune but being in a different country, there certainly are cultural differences. For one thing, we have security guards. Not just doormen at the main entrance of the building. I’m talking about guards who patrol the office hallway or station at the floor entrance! Also, instead of getting our coffees at a self-serve kitchen, we have a couple of guys who would do these errands instead. When I want a cup of coffee, I would walk to their station, ask for a coffee, and they would pour me a cup from the coffee dispenser. Communicating with my coworkers too was different. Many times, when I asked a yes/no question, they would say yes and shake their heads from side to side at the same time. Af first I thought I was confused. After talking to SS, I found out it is actually a different interpretation of body language. Regardless, all of my coworkers here in Pune are so friendly they made me feel welcome the minute we met.

Elevators in Pune are a blast from the past. These elevators have an external door that opens up to the floor and an internal folder gate that keeps that elevator shut. The last time that I rode in one of these was back in my grandparents’ traditional Chinese apartmant in Hong Kong over 20 years ago. With my appreciation of funny stick figures, I couldn’t help but to take a picture of the warning sign inside one of the elevators.

Before I went back to the hotel, I stopped by the little corner store that has everything imagineable and got my toilet paper, Kleenx, and hangers. The shower situation improved slightly…I still couldn’t get enough warm water to come out of the tap to wash my hair properly (I barely managed to get the suds out). There is a nicer hotel down the street a little closer to the office. SS mentioned that if I’m really uncomfortable with my current arrangement, we can make some changes. As it turns out, it costs twice as much as my current place (which was only a $30 CDN difference anyway). I will give myself a week…if the hot water situation doesn’t improve, I will request to move.

I’m Such A Total Idiot

I was absolutely swamped with work today I thought I had no good stories to tell. Wow, am I ever so wrong.

I started off the day with my by-now-usual breakfast of sweet lassi and plain paratha and got to work at quarter to nine. For the entire day, I was busy with meetings, building my training material, answering support questions (from both India and Toronto), and communicating with the Toronto team for things that I cannot figure out.

For a quick bite at lunch, I picked up a variety of pastries (Rs32) from a nearby place called Mogini Cakes and bought vegetarian mango ice-cream (Rs26) from Natural Ice-cream. From the top right going clockwise, the pastries were a bun filled with mushroom & cheese, a bun of paneer florentine, and a vegetable puff. I don’t like the puff pastry too much because the layers were tough and it’s not made with butter but the buns were really tasty. The mango ice-cream was absolutely delicious. It was smooth and creamy and full of mango flavour. I can’t believe it is egg-less.

Work continued in the afternoon. By the time I was hungry, I figured it would be best to get a light dinner so I could work late. I really didn’t feel like waiting for my food so I went to Mogini Cakes again for a couple more pastries. This time I got a paneer puff and a vegetable pasties. Like I said, I didn’t like their puff pastry but since they were all out of buns, the puffs would do. I dropped by Baskin-Robbins for a scoop of Litchi Swirl ice-cream (Rs40). Although the ice-cream was studded with chunks of litchi, I much prefer the other ice-cream parlour (besides, it’s cheaper too).

I made some really good progress at work in the evening. Before I knew it, it was already 1:30am. That’s when it hit me…I left my room keys at the front desk in the morning for them to clean my room. Was the front desk still open this late at night? I didn’t even have the phone number of the hotel! One option was to stay at the office until the morning which I’m totally okay. For a minute, I thought I would do that except what if the poor guy’s waiting for me to pick up the keys so he can go to sleep? I was cursing and calling myself stupid and finally decided to make a run for it. If I couldn’t get my keys, then I would just come back to the office. It’s only a 5-minute walk anyway. I told P (who was still at the office) about my plan and said that I would call him when I arrive at the hotel. He suggested why don’t he accompany me to the hotel instead? He has a bike after all. I was so grateful for his offer.

When we got to the lobby of our office, he told me to wait at the door while he get his bike from the underground garage. Sounded like a plan.

[rooooooooom roooooom]

[rooooooooom roooooom]

What do you know, his “bike” is actually a motorcycle! I was totally at a lost. I thought he was talking about a bicycle and he would walk me to the hotel! I have never ride a motorcycle before much less toting a heavy laptop on one shoulder!!! Besides, what if I throw off his balance?! Well, it’s too late to change my mind now so what a heck. The streets in Pune around our office is really not the best. It’s very bumpy but somehow, we managed to arrive at the hotel without losing any bags or limps or passenger thanks to P’s driving skills (I’m quite sure I didn’t help). You know, it was a lot of fun to ride a motorcycle! The night air was cool and the breeze did not have the muggy quality of daytime’s pollution. I ended my night by apologizing profusely to the front desk guy (he stayed up to give me the keys) and thanked P many times for being such a gentleman. Who knew my utmost stupitity would turn out to be such an adventure?

Traffic and Blackout

Traffic in India is something to behold. Our office in Pune is situated on a busy main road. At all times of the day, a relentless background noise of honking is the norm. In North America, honking is typically a signal of warning or distress. Over here, honking is merely a way to announce your presense. Cars, rickshaws, motorcycles, bicycles, pedestrians, and the occasional cows all share the barely paved roads at the same time and the right of way is given to the most aggressive. Crossing the street is a true test of courage and requires a keen sense of speed estimate. To the untrained eyes, the street is never clear enough in both directions for safe crossing. However, after some practise, I soon learn to take advantage of the different speed of the vehicles to zigzag my way across the street.

My daily walk between the hotel and the office is mostly uneventful but the different signs and stores along the route appeals to my sense of humour tremendously. For example, everyday, I would walk pass the following places which still give me the giggles every time.

I wonder exactly what do people do at a “Relapse Lounge”?

This is a sign outside of a dental office. That tooth looks serene and malicious at the same time.

Good to know….just in case I ever get the urge to cleanse after work.

Back home, a power failure is always met with much consternation. Here in Pune, it’s a way of life. I mentioned briefly before that we have scheduled blackouts and most places are equipped with backup power generators. This evening, I originally planned to have dinner with SS and LM and do my laundry at their flat. However, by the time I got out of the office, the streets were darker than usual and that was when I realized that there was a power failure. I was glad to have my flashlight with me so I made my way back to the hotel and dropped off my laptop and went over to SS’s place. I found out from LM that this power failure was actually unexpected (caused by some work done around the city, it appeared). Of course, there would be no laundry tonight.

We decided to meet up with TG and his wife for dinner at The Great Punjab, one of the best (not to mention very fancy) Punjabi restaurant in Pune just across the street. The food was indeed very delicious. We had paneer tikka (my favourite), grilled stuffed mushrooms, mustard green in cream sauce, and another paneer dish in an orange creamy sauce. Of course, all of these were washed down with naan, roti, and beer.

After dinner, on the recommendation of TG and his wife, we walked over to Merlot for their chocolate souffle. Merlot is a very contemporary restaurant serving continental cuisine in setting that can rival any fine dining restaurant in more cosmopolitan cities. I entered the gate to find a courtyard with a single statue of elephant (I’m not up to my knowledge on Hindu gods). Illuminated by moonlight, there stood a 2 story building of dark tinted glass with the maitre d’ guarding the tall wooden door to the restaurant. Once inside, I was impressed by the minimalist and stylish interior design. We were seated in the outdoor area where cushioned seats and alcoves where carved from the granite low wall studded with recessed candles. From where we sat, I could see the inside of the restaurant from its floor to ceiling glass wall. There was a bar on one side of the wall and the inside is divided into a lounge and dining area. It’s difficult to describe but needless to say, Merlot is one of the best-looking fine dining restaurant I’ve ever been to (and I’ve been to many around the globe). The souffle itself was nothing to write home about. It was moderately tall but the inside was entirely molten. The souffle actually left an oily film coating my mouth which I found rather unpleasant. The chocolate flavour was lacking as well. Perhaps I will give this restaurant a try one of these days. Apparently, a celebrity chef acts as a consultant for this place. I’m curious to find out more.

Howling At Night

Ever since my university days in Waterloo, I have a habit of going out at night and by that I don’t mean “going out to have fun”. I mean I have a tendency to shift my entire schedule a few hours behind so I end up doing most of my errands and chores in the evening. Walking around on empty streets at night is indeed very enjoyable. In a quiet university town like Waterloo and even in Toronto where I go around in my car most of the time, I don’t feel unsafe at all. I would avoid suspicious areas and of course stay alert but safety is not a huge issue.

It is a safe neighbourhood where our office is located in Pune. Being sent to work in our international office, I expect to spend a lot of time at work simply because of the increased workload. It did not occur to me that there would be any problem for me to work late. Turns out there is an unexpected twist. My expat coworkers warned me that all those stray dogs that look so docile during the day turn into something fierce at night. I don’t doubt them…I can hear howling every night from my hotel room. While the dogs would get out of people’s way in daylight, they would get up close to you at night and possibly without good intentions. TG taught me a trick that if I ever find myself in trouble, pick up a rock and make a gesture to throw at the dog. After listening to his wife’s concern about his safety when he has to walk home after late nights at work (and TG’s much bigger than me), I really have to think twice next time I want to work late in the office. It doesn’t help that I’m afraid of dogs too.

Although I’ve only spent a week here in India, I get a feeling that things I worry about have taken a turn down to an almost primitive level. I worry whether there’ll be electricity, hot water in the tap, and now dogs that may attack. Life certainly play by different rules here.

Contributed by Candy.

You can see her original blog at :

http://wscwong.blogs.friendster.com/dessert_by_candy/india/index.html

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