09.13.06
PUNE - Down Memory Lane
September 12, 2006. I turn 50. After traversing the length and breadth of the country for almost all my life I’m back in my hometown Pune. I am overcome by nostalgia, for the Pune I once lived in no longer exists.
Then, in the early sixties, when I was a small boy, Pune was called Poona, and I used to live in my grandfather’s house on Parvati Chowk on Tilak Road opposite Madiwale Colony in Sadashiv Peth. A hugely bearded man prepared the best bhel in town (Kalpana Bhel) just below our house; today the bearded man is no more, the stall is there, but the old tasty bhel is missing – today it’s just run of the mill stuff. And there was Santosh Bhavan opposite for Misal, thali and yummy snacks.
In the evenings we ran to Talyatla Ganpati, to pray, and Peshwe Park zoo, to see the animals, play on the swings and slides in the park, or ride the toy train Phulrani. Now there is a beautiful Saras Baug surrounding the Talyatla Ganpati Temple and the zoo has gone to Katraj.
If you wanted to have Non-Veg, there were Asara, Jeevan, Poonam, Good Luck and Lucky in the city, otherwise you had to go to Camp. Asara has closed down, Jeevan has become Grahak Peth departmental store, Poonam a pure veg place, Lucky demolished; only Good Luck at Deccan is going strong. There was Poona Coffee House at Deccan, and Irani joints like Ideal, Regal and Volga, for tea, coffee, bun maska, omlette, kheema pav and samosas. In Camp there was the famous Naaz serving delectable mutton samosas and the Coffee House on Moledina Road serving delicious breakfast.
Naaz has been replaced by Barista, and it’s other avatar, the Maha Naaz, a veg place, is also going to close down. Most of the Irani joints and the Camp Coffee House have been transformed into Udipi eateries serving Dosa and the like, and Poona Coffee House, which underwent an upmarket transformation, may also close down as per a report in Sakal. Yes, Sakal, my favorite Marathi newspaper, is still going strong, but the Poona Herald (called Herald now) has The Times of India and the Indian Express to reckon with.
In camp Dorabjee & Sons is still there for scrumptious Biryani and Parsi food, but the inimitable Kamling on East Street, where I first tasted Chinese, has disappeared and in its place stands a veg thali place which I must visit.
Bhanuvilas, where I saw Marathi films, New Empire, which screened Hollywood stuff, and Hindvijay at Deccan have vanished, and the old world West End with its unique chairs and soda fountain has been replaced by a modern hall minus the soda fountain and the relaxed ambience. Now there are Multiplexes.
I can go on and on in this vein, but that will make me melancholic. So let’s look at the positive side – Ganu Shinde, Kawre are still there for pure ice cream and mastani, but Bua has gone. Ramnath and its fiery Misal still stimulate, and so do most of the Amrututulyas like Ambika and New Ambika and Badshahi Boarding is still unchanged. In camp there is George, Kayani, Kwality, Marzorin, Mona Food and Budhanis. And all the sweet shops like Chitale, Kaka Halwai, Karachi and Bhavnagri are flourishing from strength to strength. And many new places have come up. And all the bookstores like Manneys, International, Popular and the ones at Appa Balwant Chowk are getting better and better, and there is Crossword too.
And of course, “Yours’ truly” is still going strong at 50. So I’m going to celebrate my half century - Happy Birthday to me!
VIKRAM KARVE
unni krishnan said,
September 15, 2006 at 8:58 am
Remined me of the Pune of yesteryears .. very nostalgic.
Parvat Pandey said,
October 8, 2006 at 1:29 am
Very well written. Reminded me of the 70’s Pune.
Keep writing.
Adarash M said,
October 8, 2006 at 1:29 am
Fantastic writing vikram. Keep it going !!
Rohini Sood said,
October 8, 2006 at 1:30 am
I want my old Pune back.
We should start the Pune 70’s club
Marathagadi said,
November 2, 2006 at 3:22 am
Appa Balwant Chowk had “Chimaji Appa’s” wada.(How many people know who was Chimaji Appa?).And on its ground floor,was “Samadhan Bhel”.
“Camp” had its old charm .A few shops belonged to Anglo-Indians.You could also come across a number of Goans.And there was Apollo Music House with Norhona,Gopi and Chaphalkar where we use to listen to and buy new EPs and LPs ,apart from the 78s.There was “Bombay Swadeshi”-the one near Bhopale Chowk.Dr.Gohkale’s bungalow was at the end of Main Street.
There was also Poona Coffee House (now Karachi Sweet Mart building).
Also “The Regent Store”-sweet and sad memories.(Those who know will understand).
In Marz-O-Rin,you had a free access to the sandwiches and other eatables.When you would finish eating,you had mention how many and what all things you ate and then pay for those.”TRUST” - that was still alive!
The death-nail on camp’s beauty was “Aurora Towers”.Ugly,dirty,monstrous structure that began the wave of destruction of Camp’s old charm.
Hmmm!Some more memories next time.
Numaviyas,Modernist,Bhave,St.Vincent.s- come forward and write.
parat bhetoo!
vijendra singh said,
December 2, 2006 at 10:04 pm
I have read all the comments here…I must admit that it would be difficult to digest todays pune for what it was a yesteryears Poona.
I have just virtually completed 5.5 yrs in pune, mostly residing in Tokyo/KL/Canada/USA for most of the time. But still longing for pune is more than that of my hometown Lucknow.
There are various perspectives to perceive what Pune looks like today, or rather i will say India looks like.
Things are changing at a greater pace, everything is puerly driven by capitalism ( I am also a part of it, no denying).
Rapid growth of IT has braught in lot of changes in pune, it is slowly becoming similar to Mumbai in terms of cosmopolitan identity minus any undue political advancement.
Every massive change in society brings in certain advantages and nuisances with it. This is what is happening here, folks from Northern part/Southern part are coming in pune, they have their own identity and tastes. Somebody has to cater to the same, that is why new specialized eateries/shops are opening up.
Now why pune old charm is diminishing, has to be seriously thought upon and measures should be braught in to mitigate the same. Cities should not loose their identity (Though I think Pune is far big a cultural city to ever loose its identity)
Every city has its own unique charm, folks associate their daily routine with city and fully abosolve themselves into the same. Once that association is broken, they feel like something missing. This is called nostalgia.
I fully understand and keep abreast with Mr Karve’s view points.
And I congratulate him for completing a half century:)
Happy B’day to you Sir.
Regards,
Vijendra
COL SV SHROTRI said,
December 4, 2006 at 9:10 pm
Well written Vikram, keep it up.
I too am 50 plus. I remember my cycling days where we used to carry a torch, just in case Mama (cop) is round the corner.
Today tutions are at every street but NANA classes will be surely missed. After travelling to all possible borders of our nation, when I visit (yes I am and will settle here) , I do miss good old Poona.
COL SV SHROTRI said,
December 4, 2006 at 9:12 pm
Well written Vikram, keep it up.
I too am 50 plus. I remember my cycling days where we used to carry a torch, just in case Mama (cop) is round the corner.
Today tutions are at every street but NANA classes will be surely missed. After travelling to all possible borders of our nation, when I visit (yes I am and will settle here) , I do miss good old Poona.
Pari said,
February 13, 2007 at 10:16 pm
I have recently moved to Pune from Bombay, this was extremely interesting, I have also seen much in life that has changed and go into bouts of nostalgia. I think more than just the eateries have changed though, I would like to discuss this with you further if you are agreeable. You have my e mail
Thank you
Pari
Sadashiv Punekar said,
March 6, 2007 at 8:50 pm
Infact few years ago we used to go to university from senapati bapat road and it used to have trees on both sides of the road. the road used to look lovely from symbi. Then downhill…
Even Lucky hotel is gone last year. In our unemployment days we used to eat pudding and have tea with it, worrying about future..
Akshay hotel in nal stop chawk has gone as well. It used to be the cheapest and best food. Value for money..
Pune is changing rapidly thats for sure…
Ashish said,
March 20, 2007 at 1:33 pm
My memories are since my childhood as my grandparents were staying at Prabhat Road.
My mavshi used to live off Junglee Maharaj Rd and not J M Rd as it is nowadays called. My memories of Junglee Maharaj Rd was when there was only BalGandharva and Sambhaji Park as the only 2 landmarks- it was absolutely devoid of any hotels except the evergreen Cafe Sunrise and Khyber and there was place called Mulay snacks
As regards University Rd- one could walk on the centre of the road at 8-8.30 in the night without any problem as there was virtually zero traffic- this was as recent as 1998. Then with the expressway, developemnt of Wakad, Aundh etc this road has lost its charm. Who can forget the beautiful karanja at the University signal and the chowpatty at the beginnning of Pashan Rd.
The Durvankur hall on Tilak Rd was originally a hotel called Swad where one used to get good Gavran chicken
Gele te din gele
But still after seeing other so called great cities like Bangalore and Delhi- Pune still rules!!!!
Ashish