05.27.09
Character Of A City
In 1977 ,I stepped into Mumbai City for first time .My father took me from a Village in South Konkan in an Overnight journey to Mumbai to Pursue further High school studies .I did not know even Marathi language well then , let alone the English and others and transformation from a village life to central Metropolis of India was an overwhelming experience!!
When the school started however my absorption into City life was eased out by several of my urban class mates who had big heart to welcome and make me comfortable in the transition.
My Village like , non urban look and language with Konkani accent caught everyone’s attention in the backdrop of strongest of my will and hunger to learn new things!
My schoolmates looked at my strengths in the subject of Science and mathematics rather than my articulation /Looks and Language proficiency .My progress was quick and upwards .This was my first glimpse of Mumbai !
Later when after finishing my school in Suburbs, I went to Ruia College , It was several friends from Upper Middle class Mumbai who had offered me unassuming help to settle in Ruia’s vibrant, multilingual and true cosmopolitan culture.
There are multitude of similar stories that people from Mumbai could tell .This is what makes Mumbai so lovable a place in spite of the crowd, the rush , the push and the sweat in a sultry weather amongst maddening pace of life .
Mumbai is much focused and down to earth, progressive place . If you have a will and strength of character to move forward, It hugs you like your mother .
Then there is this dialogue with a Mumbai cab driver as I boarded a cab in Mumbai last week .
I had asked the driver as to what the Business looked like for him.
“Enough earnings to push us through Sir .But there is no future in it “.
Everybody in Mumbai looks at the future .It is not day’s arrangement that makes people complacent.
Cab driver conservation reminds me of New York .In many ways the cabbies in Mumbai are similar to those in New York .Very talkative and always conversing on the topics of the day covering politics, economics, scandals and Personal lives.
In Many ways New York too indeed has the character and a face to that of Mumbai.
Much larger scale, Grand Economics but essentially the character remains same.
Very Professional, down to earth and a classless society when it comes to business and social engagements .One can always hope to be better from the previous day and start the “slate” clean and have fresh start at any stage in one’s life.
New York and Mumbai hug everyone and everything.
Large and small, Rich and Poor, educated and uneducated, Industrialist who show up in Limousines and the small ones who would sell teas by the roadside next to skyscrapers.
If you stretch you could live on a couple of Dollars and yet at times you may think Million are not enough.
I have gone Globe-trotting for years on end .Tokyo showcases the niceties of a Human race .It also represented enormous Wealth in early 90’s.So much so that many a news papers in Tokyo carried editorials for several months on what US needs to do to it’s economy.
Social barriers did exist in Business environment .But then u had only two classes.”Japanese “and “Non Japanese”. None other! Non Japanese encompassed everyone including Americans Business Tycoons to Moroccan cab drivers
Yet, there is no equal to warmth and Honesty Japanese offer to a Visitor. It is one grand experience that u can never miss!
South Korean cities carried a nationalistic fervor .It spanned from Seoul the capital to “Yeochun “ a small industrial town in the south. Both Tokyo and the Seoul also represented an American character largely handed out to them by the American military bases in those countries. During a two years stay there in early 90’s, I forged a relationship with many a people which till date I have cherished and maintained in one way or the other
America itself is a spectrum of characters.
Washington is political in character and in face much to the similarity with New Delhi. New York is business like and Chicago relates to Black history and Art includes Jazz .The Famous loop eight traversed by the overhead train touches the Jazz Corner which is so Unique to American Jazz History .
Also when we talk of America ,we need to talk “service” .We do not know today any other place , that offers the high standards of service and service culture that America offers .
I have liked London after living there for several years .It is not as “classless” as NY or Mumbai but represents other grand qualities in variety in history, art, sports and is very vibrant city encompassing multiple facets of Life. I call it a “cool and Grey city “.
You will perfectly understand this description if you compare some of the cities who have very bright and sultry summers, Including Mumbai and NY.
In 2002, I took a cab after a Tube to get to Science Museum in London. I specified the cabbie the Road that Museum was located on and asked if he knew it?
“I think I know it, unless they moved it !“
This is British Humor for you. As a rule a Londoner will always see a funny side of life come rain or shine.
London assumes colors at the dusk .If you would want to see what I mean you must Visit Bohemian Soho, Unmistakable part of London Life.
A “rough “area at one point of time cleaned up by London administration over a period of time. A ‘gay Rendezvous “ tag attached to it in a modern day ,inundated with Pubs and Coffee bars ,Book shops and theaters ,it is one place which underlines highlights London’s Vivacious character all seasons and Particularly in winter
Istanbul to my amazement, surprised me most in the winter of 2004 .The half European and half Asian character separated by River Bosphorous and laid out in an undulating land pattern in such a way that at highpoints you could see literally million miles all around you, overwhelms you .Combined with that is the combination of Pubs and Bars next to Churches and Mosques and Temples is something stymies you. A Religious state image that I had in my head was confronted with a “Playboy” channel on a television in the Hotel that stayed in. The food and the Bazaars there have a variety and delights.
Many a cities in the world get tagged as cultural melting pots .Istanbul beats all of them.
There is nothing like Istanbul in optical vastness that it presents and the integration that it does. Turks on top of that is a very friendly community .Some of the best on who I could rely on for my career advice from my professional connections!
Moscow and Warsaw, overwhelm you from expanse perspective .Both the cities are simply “Grand”. My business counter part told me that the Huge roads those central Moscow and Warsaw Boast, facilitated multiple lines of “Military Tanks” to be running simultaneously in parallel during War Days .
I dined with Dimity and Alex in an Authentic Russian restaurant one cold Moscow night .As the flames from the Oil lamps on the walls flickered, Alex told me that ‘Borche” (the red soup), was once the only meal for many a farmer families.
Moscow today is lit with Neon signs and Modern paraphernalia that represents American cities .But a closer look exposes the superficial decor that it is .The basic Buildings, the Bridges and the Roads represent History and the grand scale that once existed out of the Soviet empire and no matter how extensive the décor of neon signs is, it fails to shadow the original Grandness of the structure beneath. In many ways it represents the tragedy of the old empire…
I have visited many a cities for short and long stays. The wealth and expanses change, the characters could be commercial, political or simply a Business face .But essentially from Human perspective most represents a culture of their own.
Curiosity, compassion, penchant for relationships are underlying building blocks of social characters of these places
Hospitality also reminds me of our Kolhapur .
Kolhapur has a very hospitable and friendly face .If you are descending from the Ghats into coastal Konkan , the nicety, the simplicity and kindness of Konkan is first presented in Kolhapur .For past 6 years I have made it a place to stop on way to Konkan.
Strike a conversation with Hotel, restaurant staff, or the Auto rickshaw drivers and they present you with a grandest of a smile possible on face.
We need to talk about Pune and I do not mean the historical references of the city neither the status that it holds as a Hub for education.
Last summer, In Pune, on a road in Kondhwa, I came across a ghastly sight of a very frail Cow lying In the middle of road, tied to an electric pole with a lot of froth oozing out of her mouth.
A friend of mine ,who was my schoolmate and was visiting from Mumbai ,was with me and we decided to help out the situation .We went back home half a kilometer to make Multiple trips to get cold water for her on my motorbike .
We “watered” the cow.
After two trips, she must have felt great and could stand up on her feet. By now there was enough crowd on the road.
When we were about to leave, one of the Onlookers said:
“Aaapne bahoot accha kam kiya , Aap ab isko rassi chodkar Jane bhi dijiye”
He was asking us to let the cow go by releasing her from rope shackles.
My friend replied “Hamko jo karan thik laga wo hamane Kar diya ,Apko jo karana hai ,woh aap kar do’
I feel , Pune in many a ways and in many an experiences, has become “Onlooker’s” city .
In 2002 When we lived in a place on Kondhwa Road , A lot of Trees were being cut by the Builder (or authorities?) .I went to Municipal commissions office to sit in a public complaint session that used to run at the time .After looking at my complain letter he had phoned some one immediately to get the status .I was told at the end of the phone call that the Builder had been prosecuted.
Upon my return home, in next couple of days ALL the trees were cleaned up. The Garden committee which controlled at the time, the tree management in the city, apparently constituted of many a NGO’s and this was a clear testimony to the NGO approach and attitude towards such a Humane facet of this city
The less we talk on Traffic in Pune the better .The popular reason that we hand out is that the roads have not widened over the years. We do not want to talk on the discipline to be maintained in a lane in a Road Jam .It is not the inconvenience of congestion that bothers me but the selfish attitude of the Drivers to get ahead and walk over anyone and everyone’s dignity is overwhelmingly disgusting !.
The “service” is another point that we can talk on for hrs on end. Be it a shop or a restaurant or a Dealer who you may be wanting to buy a Bike or a Car from. The speed and the smile, the two key factors associated with service , disappoint you. Perhaps in this aspect Pune equals London .An apt reason for Punekar’s to be proud off probably!!
How do we do on expression of a public sentiment? Do we often see active rallies, political or otherwise in this city? Particularly for the “common cause “?. Say protests against the Auto Rickshaw Fare and Fare policies or Tree cutting that we so are obsessed with in Pune ?
If your answer is no and that Elections is the apt way to change all of this ,we did have lowest turn around for elections in the History this year . I asked a friend of mine to explain this .
“The oppressive heat this summer may have killed public interest !”
Since 86 I have lived here on and Off . I have loved winters and I have loved theaters .I have enjoyed strolls through old camp area and I have enjoyed walks through old city center .But to be sure , Often I have struggled to understand Pune’s character . I suspect, there is unmistakable “pseudo element” in it demeanor . Authenticity, down to earth practicality and certain friendliness that many a places offer, somehow delude you here .
I am not sure how many of you will agree with me and it does not really matter but in the least ,I am going to continue wearing a friendly smile , put my best foot forward to make a change to this ,……. every day !
- Jagdish Naik
